Waves

Is a series that delves into the lives of surfers from diverse backgrounds, capturing their profound connection with the ocean and how it shapes their concepts of happiness, personal growth, and freedom. Each interview profiles a different individual, using surfing as a lens to explore larger existential themes such as the pursuit of passion, the meaning of freedom, and the impact of nature on mental well-being.

The series aims to present a mosaic of personal stories, showing how the act of surfing transcends the sport itself, becoming a metaphor for overcoming challenges, finding peace, and building community. It explores the emotional and spiritual dimensions of surfing, highlighting how this connection to the sea influences surfers' lives beyond the waves. Through intimate interviews and cinematic portrayal of surfing culture, "Waves" seeks to offer viewers an immersive look at the transformative power of surfing and its capacity to inform life philosophies and personal fulfillment.

Helen Lande Salacar

Ellie’s ethos is built around the concept that true happiness stems from freedom—the freedom not to worry, the freedom to live authentically, and the freedom to follow one's passions without constraint. 

For Ellie, happiness is waking up with a sense of peace, exemplified by a quiet morning with a cup of coffee, contemplating the day ahead without the burdens of conventional worries. It's a minimalist approach to well-being that prioritizes personal fulfillment over materialistic gains. "Happiness means when I don’t have to worry about the life I’m worrying about right now," she explains, highlighting a desire for a life stripped of unnecessary stresses.

Surfing, for Ellie, is not just a sport but a vital component of her life philosophy. It offers a dynamic way to engage with the world, providing a physical and mental balance that challenges her to continuously grow and adapt. Each wave represents a new opportunity for self-discovery and personal achievement. "The first time I surfed, it was scary," she recalls, "but this fear becomes something else, you fall for it and it grows on you." Surfing teaches resilience, patience, and courage—qualities that Ellie values deeply.

Beyond the adrenaline and the physical challenges, surfing is Ellie’s way of connecting with the world on a deeper level. It's a solitary time where she can be wholly herself, unjudged and unfettered. "It’s just you and the ocean," she notes, describing the sea as a teacher who imparts lessons about patience, overcoming fear, and understanding one's surroundings. This connection to the ocean is meditative and therapeutic, offering a respite from the chaos of daily life.

Ellie's life is a quest for meaningful experiences and authentic connections. She stresses the importance of sharing life’s journey with others, whether they are partners or friends. Her views resonate with themes from the film "Into the Wild," where the value of shared experiences is central. "Your life will not be a story if you can’t tell it," she asserts, emphasizing the narrative value of companionship and shared memory.

In essence, Ellie lives by the maxim "seize the day," applying it as much to her surfing as to her broader life approach. Her story is a testament to finding one's rhythm in the push and pull of the waves and the flow of everyday existence. As she navigates both the literal and metaphorical waves, she embraces a life of intention, where each day is lived fully and each wave surfed passionately.

Fina Dethlefsen

Fina Dethlefsen's approach to life is infused with a zest for adventure and a profound appreciation for the people and passions that fill her days. Happiness, for Fina, is intricately linked to engaging in activities she loves with people dear to her, whether it’s surfing the waves, sharing laughs over board games, or embarking on spontaneous camping trips. Yet, even when she finds herself alone, her spirit remains buoyed by the sheer joy of living.

“Doing what I love with people I love, that’s what happiness is to me,” Fina explains. Her philosophy underscores the importance of shared experiences, yet she also cherishes the solitary moments that allow her to connect deeply with herself and her surroundings. Whether she is surrounded by friends or exploring the world on her own, Fina embraces every experience with a heartfelt enthusiasm.

Surfing, in particular, offers Fina an essential escape, a release from the mundane stresses of daily life. Each time she paddles out into the ocean, she finds herself transported to a place where the challenges on land seem inconsequential. “It’s like an escape. Like if I’m a bit stressed or if things aren’t going well at home, I just get out and it just kind of takes me to a different place,” she says. The thrill of catching a wave, the quiet satisfaction of being amidst the ocean’s vastness, recharges her and brings a profound sense of joy and peace.

The ocean teaches resilience; the surf, a reminder of the world's natural rhythms and the importance of flowing with them rather than against them. Even on days when she doesn’t catch a wave, the serenity of just being in the water is enough to lift her spirits.

Living by a mantra she learned from her sister, “Exchange expectation for appreciation,” Fina has reshaped her outlook on life. This ethos, originally from her sister’s podcast, encourages a shift from anticipating outcomes to valuing the present moment and the opportunities it offers. This perspective has become a guiding principle for Fina, enhancing her ability to enjoy life’s journey without being hindered by the pressure of expectations.

In every aspect, from her social interactions to her solitary surf sessions, Fina embodies a philosophy of life that prioritizes joy, connection, and an unyielding appreciation for the present moment. Her life, enriched by the waves and the community she finds within the surf culture, exemplifies a harmonious blend of adventure and introspection.

Gianfranco Lanzio

Gianfranco Lanzio's life trajectory veered dramatically when he embraced surfing, not merely as a sport but as a cornerstone of his existence. Originally entrenched in the corporate throes of an advertising agency in Italy, Gian found himself revisiting his teenage passion for surfing following a severe health scare. This pivotal moment not only reshaped his career path but also redefined his personal values and social circles.

For Lanzio, surfing is much more than a leisure activity; it is a profound engagement with nature that offers endless novelty and excitement. "It’s always different, always exciting, always just surprises you every single time that you're out there," he explains. His connection to the ocean and his surfboard transcends the physical, offering a spiritual release and a profound sense of freedom that he likens to a form of religious experience.

Surfing has ingrained in him a deep-seated appreciation for the natural elements and the sheer joy of riding the waves. This appreciation has evolved into an ethos of gratitude and mindfulness, which Lanzio describes as transformative, not only in personal relationships but in fostering connections with diverse individuals globally. His business ventures in the surf industry have not only been profitable but have also enabled him to live a life aligned with his passions.

Describing his relationship with surfing, Lanzio uses the metaphor of an "unattainable lover," highlighting the sport's elusive challenges and the perpetual desire to master its unpredictability. This metaphor extends to his philosophy of life, emphasizing a state of flow and synchronicity with one's environment, which he experiences both in and out of the water.

Lanzio's definition of happiness is simplicity itself: being in harmony with the present moment, appreciating what one has, and maintaining kindness towards others. His lifestyle, deeply intertwined with surfing, reflects a commitment to living authentically, embracing the challenges and rewards that come with following one's passions.

Through his story, Gianfranco Lanzio illustrates the transformative power of surfing—how it can turn a hobby into a way of life that opens new doors and builds communities, fostering a unique ethos that many in the surf world share. His narrative is a compelling testament to the profound impact that embracing one's passion can have on every facet of life.